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Footloose Librarians' Coast to
Day 2: Ennerdale Bridge to Stonethwaite
Excellent Breakfast at Low Cock How, and off by 8:50 for the mile or so walk to Ennerdale Bridge. We had hoped to buy lunches in Ennerdale but the store was closed.
Off to the east for a bit, then some indecision that nearly sent us on a route north of Ennerdale Water. The walk along the south shore had been described as a stroll. It was anything but. With recent rain sending water down the hillside, and sometimes treacherous footing, we worked hard along the lakeside. Mists and light rains partially obscured the ordered beauty of the lake scene. Passing the water, we opted for the wide forest track on the north side of River Lisa, and we were ultimately glad to have chosen it over the more interesting southern route, which we could see intermittently (but never saw any walkers on it that day).
Passed two YHA hostels, still no lunch to be had. Caught up with our Aussie friends around 2:00 at the gate to Black Sail Hut, where we found a warm dining room full of walkers including our Hollanders. The host was not there, self service coffee, tea or broth. Lunchless, we opted for a cup of broth before setting out.
The climb up Loft Beck was steep and tiring, but the mist rose just as we reached the summit at the pass, giving great views back toward Ennerdale Water, and northwest toward the Buttermere. Followed the cairns to the fence, and on across the descending slope to a large stone wall, then right, (east), straight down to to Honister House.
Very tired and footweary now. This second day is described as the most trying of the C2C, and at this point we believe it. Our Aussie friends rejoined us now, having stopped for tea at the museum next to Honister House. Following a rocky bridle path and the former toll road toward Seatoller. Then east by road skipping the path through Johnny's Wood, and on to the turn for Stonethwaite.
A great dinner of steak and ale pie and good
company at the Langstrath Country Inn and a a snug bed at the
Stonethwaite B&B, end of a long day.
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